Thursday, May 24, 2007

Spring in New England

...means two things: shad roe and fiddleheads.



This year it also means chevre rolled in dill from Beltane Farm in Lebanon, CT. This cheese tastes like freshness. Tangy, sweet, herby, milky combine to taste. just. fresh.

I always cook my shad roe according to instructions from John McPhee, published in the New Yorker in August, 2002. He wrote the book on shad so I figure he knows from cooking it.



Dinner is served, covered in a thatch of bacon, alongside fiddleheads that I sauteed in olive oil and champagne vinegar:



John McPhee writes: You have your shad roe! You are in business! This is always exactly how we feel. Like we have just won the lottery and cannot help dancing in our chairs as we eat these huge lobes of fish eggs. The foie gras of the Connecticut River valley.

I also purchased two other amazing things recently. One is the loveliest watercress in the world, grown hydroponically by Two Guys from Woodbridge and available locally at Romeo's, Nika's, Bishop's Orchards, Limon Fine Food, and the Cityseed Farmer's Market at Wooster Square:



And the other is this Brazilian delicacy, available locally at the Shop-Rite in West Haven:



We haven't tried Ham Snack yet because the package is too beautiful to open!

5 Comments:

At 11:16 AM, Blogger Stephen said...

can i pay you to make me this right now!?

 
At 12:11 AM, Blogger zp said...

I like a photo of an actual New Yorker magazine in an actual kitchen. Was that a food issue? I don't usually find them at all appealing. But "You have your shad roe! You are in business!" is amazing.

 
At 11:25 AM, Blogger Burke your teh-ologian. said...

an article for you: http://www.cjr.org/essay/new_grub_street.php?page=all

All the best to your three cats! I am leaving this weekend, date unknown. I'll be back on occasional weekends.

The Sunnyside sublet ROCKS.

 
At 9:38 AM, Anonymous mizdelish said...

Narona: yes. But pay me quick! The season is almost over! If not already!

ZP: It was indeed a food issue from way back when. McPhee's whole article on shad is amazing. I went out and read the whole book afterward.

Burke: good luck! Have fun! Send news!

 
At 7:08 AM, Blogger Burke your teh-ologian. said...

Off topic, New York says hello.

 

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